OK another day re-organizing my office and storage space and working, listing new things and over all being buzzy but not really any fun about it…watching Sherlock Holmes now, love mysteries and re-watched Outlander—poor Claire and Jamie—so much trouble Nepal Earthquakes and another Bush gonna run….I may be entitled to compensation–so many lawyer ads. All I want for Christmas is THOR. Elementary my dear Watson.
Jamie Fraser warming up and using Sam Heughan’s phone…cute.
OK we’re going a little above—well not really but definitely beyond in our Look at the British center of government and power—the Church of England is centered at Canterbury and as far as I can see has for time on time.
THE PLACE:
WINSOR is a town, a huge Palace Complex and home to HRM Elizabeth I and lots more.
The Castle: http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/windsorcastle Is sets above the town on a chalk cliff and the original builder was the same who had the tower started–William the Conqueror in 1070. Though to us tourists it is an ancient castle it is really now more a large complex much of it shaped in the last century. Must sees are St. George’s Chapel with its beautiful Gothic architecture (Blt 1478 – 1511) Ten of Britian’s former rulers are buried here including Elizabeth II’s father (also her mother and sister Margaret) as well as Henry VIII and his 3rd wife (mother of Edward VI) who died in childbirth. (It is interesting to note that Henry was buried here rather unexpectedly and his son’s short reign and the further turmoil after his death seems to have consigned Henry to obscurity until much later when he was finally relocated.) There is an impressive monument to Princess Charlotte who died in childbirth as well as beautiful ceiling, 15th c choir stalls and banners of Knights of the Garter to name a few. While small by many of London’s edifices standards it makes up in beauty for its size. Royal Apartments now restored and the home of the Royal Collection of Art–one of the world’s finest. Queen Mary’s Doll House . This is my very favorite with it’s 1/25th life size furniture and working plumbing and lighting that actually work—there are even hand written books and paintings supplied but actually famous artists and writers. It’s good to be the King’s Kid.
The whole place is magnificent and though a bit pricey admission but well worth it…you can actually catch a train from London and then walk to the castle or the rest of town with little effort.
The Town, has lovely shops, restaurants and tea houses. http://www.lonelyplanet.com/england/southeast-england/windsor-and-eton Things to see The Guildhall on High St. . http://www.thamesweb.co.uk/windsor/guildhall/guildhall01.htm (1707) which I have yet to see but is reported to have been built by Wren (the guy who did all the post fire churches in London) and is complete with fake Tuscan columns (don’t ask). St. John the Baptist Church http://www.thamesweb.co.uk/parishchurch/parishchrch.html (19th C Parish) on High Street Royal Mews down Albans St. has an exhibition of the Queens horses, carriage and state coaches.
The School: Eaton College www.eatoncollege.com on Thames St. On the northern bank was founded by Henry VI (1440) and has produced many important men including prime ministers. The students wear tailcoats and wing collars. Museum of Eaton Life gives you history and information on the school and the Chapel has a 15th century wall painting and some lovely stained glass.
I definitely wish to return here next visit..it’s such an easy trip from the city and a nice day of wandering will probably return to the Castle and then see all the other good stuff the place has to offer which I missed before.
THE CASTLE
Hampton Court Palace http://www.hrp.org.uk/HamptonCourtPalace/ While other little girls wanted to be Cinderella and live in fairytale castles I wanted to grow up and visit Hampton Court–what amazes most is that it took me 4 visits to the UK to manage to get here. This is one of oldest Royal courts that even Wren (yeah that guy again) was involved with (though his south wing was badly damaged in a fire in the 80s.)
First there’s the option of travel–the train is quick (30 min), comfortable and the way I arrived but next time I think I’ll take the riverbus (4 hours) on the Thames which is how the kings and courtiers all arrived here in days gone bye and a scenic view of the Thames Valley.
The estate was originally Cardinal Wolsey’s (the Butcher’s son) but was gifted in an effort to regain favor from his liege lord Henry VIII during the mess that resulted from Henry’s attempt to divorce Katherine of Argon and marry Ann Boleyn, it didn’t work and Wolsey died on route to face charges from his former master. Henry didn’t give the estate back and there are still intertwined initials that have lasted while the marriage (his second) was alas done in four years.
It is in fact two castles (and acres of gardens one of which contains stock growing from a grape vine that was in fruit at the time of Henry and flourishes still) One built by Wren in the 17th c and the earlier Tudor—oh and that’s another reason I am not fond of Wren—he had intended to tear down all the older palace and build all new–but luckily the kind couldn’t afford it and so we have this lovely Tudor castle that so speaks of the ogre that was Henry and the women who lived and died by his will.
There is so much here I must insist you see it I do not have the words to do it half of what it deserves.
AND SOMETHING DIFFERENT
Highgate Cemetery http://highgatecemetery.org/ on Swain’s Lane has lots of famous people’s interments, an East (which you visit without supervision and the West (which you can only visit on a tour). There are more than 50,000 tombs holding approx. 166,000 people, which they have been accepting since 1839. Its amazing place to visit and you probably can’t see it all ever…but I thought I’d point out a couple of less usual (which if you’d ever been there you’d been there you realized that unsual is the norm there).
Of course the first one is that showed above. Frank Thorton’s, a renowned concert pianist with a quote from Puccini on the side, piano tombstone .
Edward Prosser’s stone with tennis racquets and balls engraved on it for a set of mixed doubles, also a cricket bat, stumps and a cricket ball. Prosser by the way was a famous Victorian sporting-goods manufacturer.
Then there’s Elizabeth Eleanor Siddal a famous model in the late 19th c. who died of complications while modeling for a painting by Sir. John Everett Millais’ Ophelia. Her husband Rosetti (who had a history of multiple infidelities) grieved extravagantly at her death and placed a note book of his poems in her casket before her burial at Highgate. He later fell on hard times and his publisher had the casket exhumed (at night by fire light) and the booklet found. Legend says she was perfectly preserved with a great growth of hair (which leads to speculation of tall tales since hair doesn’t grow after death). The new book of poems was not a success and the husband lived out his life with guilt at desecrating his wife’s grave. He even declined to be buried near her.
Most recently there is a story (1960s) of a vampire that roamed the rambling grounds with reports of sightings and mutilated foxes. http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/england/greater-london/hauntings/the-highgate-vampire-how-it-all-began-by-david-farrant.html but I’ll save that for another time.
A mighty mass of brick, and smoke, and shipping, / Dirty and dusty, but as wide as eye / Could reach, with here and there a sail just skipping / In sight, then lost amidst the forestry / Of masts; a wilderness of steeples peeping / On tiptoe through their sea-coal canopy; / A huge, dun cupola, like a foolscap crown / On a fool’s head – and there is London Town. -Lord Byron
