6/16 RETURN TO BOSCASTLE WITH A LOVELY LADY WHO GREW UP THERE

ANOTHER day and another bit of my adventure…though the weather has been increasingly rainy I’ve found time to write and to relax–two things I haven’t been doing much of lately—so this down time may well be a blessing in disguise. Also have been walking a lot which is good for me, and my heart.

The staff at the Cornishman http://www.cornishmaninn.com/ have been wonderful for me…since I’m all on my own they’ve kinda adopted me and I feel one of the gang….despite the fact I’m a Yank and a bit older than the group…..But when Sharon (she like the rest of the crew carries out multiple jobs including tending bar and serving tables. ) This is a town with people who move about and in and out…in some)ways it reminds me of Key West in that it is laid back and the facilities while not new are comfortable and clean and made for a great stay. So you see a permanent staff dedicated to working full time and making the place a great success, while a few that come and then wander off, leaving them looking for a new person to fill the gap. It amazes me some days how they stay cheerful and helpful with all they do…but they are amazing people and I salute them for it.

But back to Sharon…she was going to be in Boscastle helping out a friend and asked if I’d like to ride over with her and then we could meet in the afternoon and she’d bring me back to the Inn.

Boscastle is quite close, but while Tintagel is located on a single road along a high laying area, Boscastle is bigger (or looks that way and the “newer” part of the town is along the river which was seriously flooded in 2004.

On our trip over I discovered that Sharon is a native of Cornwall and has a long family history in Boscastle. That she lived there until she got married and lived in Greece for several years before returning to Cornwall.

She brought me into town through the oldest section—this is a steep climb from what is now the town centr and she didn’t figure my bad knee would make the effort up it.

The name of the village comes from Botreaux Castle (pronounced “But’ry”), a 12th-century motte-and-bailey fortress, of which few remains survive. The castle was anciently in the possession of the de Botreaux family, which became under William de Botereaux (1337–91) the Barons Botreaux. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boscastle

It was a wonderful little part of the town, with it’s stone buildings and Sharon pointing out places were her family had lived over the years and other places of interest.

Boscastle, with its little harbour, handled a large proportion of the trade between Bristol and the south western ports. In fact, the district between Boscastle, Tintagel, Camelford and Delabole was mainly dependent on the harbour at Boscastle for its supplies of coal and other imports. This trade was, at the time, carried out by sailing ships of up to 90, 100 and 200 tons. These ships were mostly registered at the old port of Appledore. Some of their names were Saint Mary, Francis Drake, Whynot, Lively and Beddoe. (late 19th and early 20th century) http://www.cornwall-opc.org/Par_new/e_g/pdfs/boscastle_trevalga.pdf

What amazed me the most was Sharon’s ability to weave her car in and out of the parked and oncoming cars with effortless skill. Driving in Cornwall is not for the unskilled.

The historic picturesque fishing village of Boscastle with its Medieval core and distinctive harbour is one of Cornwall’s most romantic places. It is a village steeped in history, associated with authors and artists who have been inspired by its remoteness and rugged beauty.

More of the old town

Then back to the now main downtown

The village is very pleasing to the eye….and the main area here is along the valley and doesn’t strain my knee.

Boscastle, village lies within the parish of Forrabury and Minster on the North Cornish Coast 14 miles south from Bude and 5 miles from Tintagel, a conservation area amongst some of the most beautiful countryside within the British Isles, and is one of the few remaining unspoilt harbour villages in Cornwall. Designated an Area of Outstanding beauty, the National Trust own and care for the beautiful medieval harbour and surrounding coastline. http://www.boscastlecornwall.org.uk/villagewebsites.htm

Some many little spots of beauty and though it was a bit overcast which has been common lately it wasn’t raining and I did a bit of walking about.

The landscape, coastline and quaint old buildings are undoubtedly the main attraction of the local area. These are made all the more interesting with local potteries, art galleries and the Museum of Witchcraft. Also nearby is sacred site Saint Nectan’s Glen where the River Trevillet has created a magnificent 60 foot waterfall cascading into a beautiful valley.

As usual I tend to fixate on the little things.

The area also has a number of gorgeous churches, most dating from Norman times and there are plenty of good walks into the beautiful countryside that start in the village.

A bit more walking about:

That’s the street she brought me down to begin my day.

As you wander around Boscastle you will begin to notice the quaint old buildings which have been converted into pubs, restaurants and coffee shops. Look out for the wonky rooftops and crooked cottages, they have real character. The limekiln and storage buildings give a brief reminder of Boscastle’s industrial past. https://www.visitcornwall.com/places/boscastle

More of the beauty of a little town in Cornwall:

The Old Forge Now an artist’s studio and gallery, the last blacksmith to work in the forge was Bill Gent in the 1940s.
It became a tea room in the 1950’s and the National Trust shop from the 1960’s until the 2004 flood. Post-flood the National Trust moved to its new location and the Forge entered its present use. http://www.visitboscastleandtintagel.com/about-the-area/boscastle

the flood

Into the Harbor

For fantastic coastal views take the left hand path at the harbour that leads to a slate platform where you can see the ‘Blowhole’ an hour before or after low tide. Boscastle’s blow-hole beneath Penally Point is often called the Devil’s Bellows. It can be seen thumping and snorting about an hour either side of low tide, blowing a horizontal waterspout halfway across the harbour entrance if the conditions are right.

A lovely café across the waterway.

The National Trust Visitor Centre has an extensive gift shop, tea rooms and the usual visitor information such as maps of the area and non expensive walking trail leaflets.

Doggie of the Day—walking about the byways of Boscastle with dad.

Literary and Thomas Hardy fans will be interested to hear that Boscastle features in Hardy’s novel A Pair of Blue Eyes and in several of his poems. Thomas Hardy came to Boscastle in 1870 to restore the nearby church of St Juliot and it was here he met his wife to be Emma Gifford.

The River maintains a bit of water and the seagulls seem to be enjoying us.

The harbour at Boscastle, now edged by tearooms and souvenirs shops, was until the 1890s bustling with the import of coal, limestone, ironwork and export of local products including slate, china clay and oats.

Low tide if you see that small break in the fall on the left you’ll see the opening out to the harbor.

The picture book harbour village of Boscastle Cornwall is sadly probably most famous for the terrible floods in 2004. Thankfully, due to the hard work and commitment of the villagers, little evidence of the flood is now visible and the village stands as beautiful as ever. http://allaboutcornwall.com/Cornwall_Places/North_Cornwall/Boscastle/Boscastle_Cornwall.html

Setting in the mud waiting for he sea to return at High Tide

Boscastle is a tiny port with a natural harbour, set in a narrow ravine, and boasts some very attractive thatches and white-washed cottages. Before the railways, Boscastle was a thriving port, serving much of North Cornwall.

and though overcast not particularly chill, except for Susi.

Boat trips can be taken from Boscastle Harbour, down the coast as far as Long Island. During the breeding season you may be lucky to see razorbills, guillemots, and puffins. There are also seals in these waters. Other trips go as far as 5 miles offshore and take trippers wreck fishing.. http://www.cornwalls.co.uk/boscastle

Still a working port.

A ramble around the picturesque Boscastle Harbour, North Cornwall. Site of the 2004 floods. The surface is generally good and there are ample facilities in terms of eating, drinking and toilets, there is also a visitor centre and several shops. Visit http://www.cornwallrr.org.uk/

More of Harbour

Some AHHHHH scenes

It seems they usually come in threes..

and still rambling through town.

The Lime Kiln a well preserved double-sided lime kiln is next to the visitor centre. A leaflet on the history and purpose of lime kilns is available to buy in the centre itself.

The Mill House originally known as Treknow Mill dates back to 1760 and was a working mill until the late 1930’s. It briefly became a private residence until 1945, when it was converted into a guesthouse. In 1960 the main building was refurbished and extended before becoming a public house for the first time. Since then it has been gradually upgraded by a number of different owners The Mill House offers visitors tranquility and comfort. http://www.visitboscastleandtintagel.com/accommodation/the-mill-house-p41763

But Dragons are OK.

Then meet up with Sharon and bless her one more trip–just so I can see the church.

We stopped by to get a look at the Church.

up the steep, wooded hillside to historic Minster Church http://www.visitboscastleandtintagel.com/about-the-area/boscastle

Such a quiet little places away in the woods.

There has been a religious foundation on this site since about 500AD when a small monastery was founded by the Holy Well which was thought to give healing.

Sharon remembered coming here for a wedding several years ago.

Very little of the original church remains, but recent research by historians tell us that the very first stone building was probably the size of the Chancel and Sanctuary with a small door in the North wall (if you go outside the building you can see the base of this door in the wall) and would have had the remains of the saint interned just under where the Vicars Stall now sits. (The top of this tomb is on the floor besides the font as you enter the church on your left hand side).

The church was then virtually rebuilt in two years by J P StAubyn.
All that now remains of the ancient fabric are a few special pieces: The Norman Font, a few carved bench ends which are now to be seen reused as the Credence Table, some lovely monuments and the window to the left hand side of the Altar is thought to be 13th century. There is also a very strange carving on the outside of the tower of a pair of scissors (nobody seems to know why this is here???) http://www.strattondeanery.co.uk/churches/minster/history.html

Then we were heading home: