A day dedicated to getting my laundry done and my hair washed.

But first 5/24:

We started the day out across the street from this former church—now restaurant on the Royal Mile at Ensign Ewort Pub.  Now is you are like me you have no idea who this was…seems Ewart was born in Scotland in 1769 and left life at age 77…in between he was a hero at Waterloo and in 1958 when it was discovered that he had been buried in a builder’s lodge his body was reinterred at the castle just up the hill here.

This is our tour company but we were in one of those smaller 16 people buses….met our group outside the pub an were on our way to the Holy Isle

Welcome to Lindsafare Island

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The castle is complete with a castle of the same name and it sets very dramatically on the highest point on the island.  It is small and built in 1550, it has been almost enteriorly rebuilt in 1903 by Sir Edwin Leityen.

and then they turned us loose on the island where Christianity spread from to impact the Anglo-Saxons when in 635 AD the king summoned Aidan from Ionia to convert his subjects.

Aidan made his base here and went forth to spread the Christian message.

King Oswald was slain by pagans in 642 but the kingom remained an St. Cuthbert came here in 665 an preached for 12 years before he became a hermit on another island for 9 more.  He did return to the Holy Isle when he was made a bishop and remained here until he died 2 years later.

Lindisafarme Priory here with its fragmental remains and Saxon tombstones.

in 739 AD there were terrible portents and omens followed closely by a Viking raid which destroyed the priory.

The priory here has been famed as one of the greatest centers of art & learning an their Linesfarme gospels are a legendary work of art.

The monks returned but so did the Vikings in 875 AD causing the Monks to flee taking their riches which include the body of St. Cuthbert and St. Oswald’s head.

We didn’t find any stray bodies, not even a head, but I did buy some of the Island’s famous mead, brewed up by the current Monks on the island who were granted lands here by the Normans a few centuries after the Anglo Saxon ones had fled.

Then it was back on the bus and headed south along the coast to Bamburg ‘Ancient Capital of Northumbia.

Then inland to the amazing Alnwick Castle.  This castle is still home to the Percy family an has been for over 700 years.

A bit of Tudor triva.   Anne Boelyn (who lost her head over Henry VIII) was either betrothed or was planning on being,, to Henry Percy, the heir to this castle when Henry VIII first set his will to have her.

This castle was also used to film some of the Harry Potter films matains it massive medieval fortress look.  But the interiors are 19th c restoration in Italian Renissance style with paintings by Titan, Canaletto, Van Dyke and Turner.

This is the second largest keep after Windsor castle and has been called the Windsor of the north.

The landscaping is by Capability Brown and there is a Regemental museum, a Roman archeological museum, the state coach, dungeons and much more.

We explored the fortress and even took a tour of the Poison Garden

We stopped at Flodden Field scene of the battle which marked the invasion of England by James IV of Scotland due to his perception that Henry VIII had invalidated his treaty with James by invading France,  James miscalculated the smaller English army raised by Catherine of Argon to defend the country from Henry’s brother-in-law (he was married to Margaret Tudor).  It was one of James few mistakes–but his worse as he and 10,000 Scots died here on the fateful day of 9/9/1513.  The English lost less than 2,000.

Back to 6/5:  Cornwall

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Not exactly an exciting day, but on that was needed to keep me clean an comfortable.  After doing my morning blog I gathered my laundry and took off to the laundry mat.  I had company–a lady who only comes to Cornwall on the weekens and who’s husband and her operate some rental cottages.

I did go out once on Sunday to go to the Camelot Hotel and its reportedly dazzling view of the castle…again with a lot of walking up and down….and the view was wonderful

as was the hotel.

Just some apple pie for dinner–was gonna eat just that and go to room to wash hair—in didn”t work that way as I ended up talking and having a few with the Proprietor and a few of his friends and we ended up talking and swapping stories into the wee hours–I finally got to sleep at 1:30 am or so.

 Today I promised myself that I would visit the solitary church setting  on the hill for over a thousand years or so now.

but first let’s go back to 5/23 and Edinburgh

We started our morning at Starbucks

with a great view of the Royal Mile.

Then a stop by a former church that is now a:

THEN catch a cab to Dean Village

The first authorization to run a mill in the area was given by King David in 1115 to Holyrood Abbey.  The conversions of these old industrial buildings to modern apartments, restaurants and stores is to use a British phrase:  Brilliant

 

These converted mill dwellings are interwoven with rows of mew houses and Victorian changes makes an area a unique community that was meant for the wanderer and explorer.

 

The path meanders and so did we as we enjoyed the lovely park like places intermingled along the waterway.

 

Walking beneath the Dean Bridge which is 447′ feet long 39′ wide with 4 arches and rises 106′ above the river. 

 

 

It is called the “bridge of sighs” and was featured in STRIP JACK by Jan Rankins as the place where a woman was found dead beneath it. Also was in The Lewis Triology II:  THE LEWIS MAN

 

One of the arches was raised several feet to keep people from using it to commit suicide.

 

After 800 years of processing grain the village was made obsolete by newer mills in other parts of the city and by the 1960’s had become slums.

 

The present area was redeveloped in the 1970’s and the walk way developed in 1983.

 

We moved along enjoying the crisp morning (are there any other kind in Scotland) and the lovely sunship (not nearly as common in Scotland).

 

When next we came to The Bernard Well.  The actually inspired by the Temple of Vesta at Tivoli, Italy .

 

The well was here in 1760,, but the temple was built in 1788 with a new pump room for the well.

 

The Well is basically unchanged for 200 years, but the well has seldom been opened since 1949.

 

The statue is of Hygieia, the Greek goddess of health.

 

Once a major draw of visitors to the area, the waters were reputed to cure arthritis, back aches, even total blindness.

 

Water supposedly and taste metallic and was described as “the washings out of a foul gun barrel

 

Then we wander into Stockbridge. Continue reading 6/4: Days of Pub Food and Long Walks and Peaceful Days in Cornwall. →

6/3  Colder today but sunny.  Finally got on the internet and my blog back and going.

First I’ll finish with 5/22 Tour:

From the head of Loch Fyne we climbed up to the highest point on the pass and then descended to Loch Long (that is the bus did…I’m setting comfortably and letting it do all the work.

Next stop Rest and Be Thankful…these are the words inscribed on a stone near the junction of two “A” roads and it was placed here by soldiers who built the original military road in 1763,  now referred to as the Drovers road.  The stone is a replacement as the orginal wore away.  We wandered about this rest area and took some pictures.  This is a stark land with frequent landslides and scenery that thrills the soul.

We then skirted Loch Long which is 20 miles long and 1-2 miles wide as well as 30 meter deep.  This is what is called a fjord type sea loch and extends from the Firth of Clyde and is surrounded by mountains.  It has lots of fish for the catching including salmon.  It was also the site of a Torpedo Range from 1912-1986 (which was finally demolished in 2007).

Then on to the Queen of Scottish lakes–Loch Lomond, the largest stretch of inland water in Britain.  This lovely lake is bordered by everything from gentle  pasture to steep, forbidding mountains  and it contains many (30) islands.  23 miles long with widths that range between 5 and 3/4 mile.

And remember that song  “You take the high road and I’ll take the low road and I’ll be in Scotland afore you.”  This is a song of the Jacobian periods when a prisoner is telling his friend prior to his execution that his spirit will take the “low road” after it is released by death—to return to his native Highlands.

A few shots of our way home

A stop to get another look at Stirling Castle—can you imagion having to attack this place?

return to reality in Cornwall….6/3:

Slept like that log everyone is always talking about and then laid abed watching morning news on BBC1.   This was a getting aquainted with the town day….. (that’s my Inn at Breakfast time)

Spent the day checking out the shops and restaurants meeting a lot of locals and tourists alike

Finally got on internet long enough to email my roomie and Susi who was convinced I’d gone back in time and was trying to find Jamie Fraser.

The weather remains beautiful and I continue to work on my relaxation and getting ready to write.  Will work on that tomorrow after I visit a couple of local sites.

6/3

Spent another day out and about the village.

First stop after my breakfast at the Cornishman Inn was

Arthur’s Hall:  This was an existing building when a millionaire decided to buy it and add a hall dedicated to King Arthur–the results being breath taking.

First you set in a small hall listening Merlin give an account of the legend using painting in the hall to illustrate the story.

Then into the longer OMG hall with brilliant stained glass windows.

Magnificent.

Lunch with Pasties and a salad and cole slaw too.

Out to the Old Post Office a 600 year old house that has evolved over the years

and actually was a long house, more formal dwelling and actually the post office for awhile.

Then back to the hotel for a bit of down time and watching the Drama Channel on BBC which I’m getting addicted to.

Dinner (Chicago Chicken) at the hotel as well.

 

My first full day in Cornwall–a bit chilly and gray this morning….I love this Inn While the Cornishman has its faults it’s lovely people and rambling building…not to mention great food make up for what the locals tell me is a change in management and personnel and the view of the church from the hall reminds me of my efforts to return to my book which I feel does need writing.

REMEMBERANCE OF 5/22/16

RABBIE’S WEST HIGHLAND LOCHS AND CASTLE DAY TOUR

We hopped  a cab for Waterloo Place/Robbie’s lovely office and café in New Town….and new since we were here 4 years ago.

Departure at 8:30 am and heading west and north past Sterling to the Scottish Highlands.

First was a drive by (at a bit of a distance) Stirling Castle which is midway between Edinburgh and Glasgow.  The castle figured prominently in the Scottish war of sucession in the Middle Ages and like Edinburgh passed bck and forth between the English and the Scots until the Scots took and held it in 1342.  It was once known as “the Key to Scotland”,

Then on to Doune–which was built for Robert Stewart, where we had a short visit.  The castle is quite the media location and has been featured in  films including Monty Python and the Holy Grail and more recently in Outlander TV series based on Diana Galbaldon’s novels….which was renewed for two more years….HURRAY.

It remained a Stewart stronghold until it fell to ruins in the 18th century.  It is now fully and beautifully restored and well worth a visit.

It was here that Albany’s son put to death James I in 1420.

We enjoyed the castle a lot and wander about and even bought a couple of things in the gift shop—nothing Outlander I’m trying to control my addiction.

The central court yard and great hall are very enlightening as to how these castles really functioned and the narrow passages show how they used the architecture in the violent times of the castle’s existence to ensure the inhabitant’s safety.

Then through Collander, the self proclaimed gateway to the Highlands with its pleasant houses built in Regency Style.

Rob Roy and Trossach’s Visitor’s center makes this a popular town to explore the park’s craggy hills and locks.

Then under the guidance of our lovely Lady Tour Guide & Driver we went on our thru Lock Lomond and Troach’s National park…the lake allows no powerboats or jet skis.

On to Kilchum Castle which is situated on the 27 mile long Lock Awe, which is Scotland’s longest in-land lake.

We walked through marshy landscape to reach this former Campbell stronghold that was abandoned after it was struck by lightening in the 18th century.

Built in the mid 1400s by Sir Colin Campbell–the first Laird of Glenorchy–the lonliness of the spot, the long stretches of almost marsh on one side and lake on the other and the stark stone ruins is both beautiful and yet forbidding.

This branch of the Campbell family (later the earls of Breadolbane) became very powerful and at one time almost rivaled the clan chiefs–the Earls of Argyle.

Susi decided to settle down and let me transverse the castle, which was the Campbell’s of Glenorchy’s power base for 15 years–on my own.

The 2nd Laird (Duncan) added the lower hall before he died at Flodden in 1556.  The 3rd (1523) and 4th (1556) also died in battle.  Collin the 6th laird added the turrents but later relocated to Baloch before 1583.

By the 1600’s the castle was an outpost for the government troops and was in use for the Jacobite uprising in 1715 and 1745.

Then it was back through Campbell Country to the town of Inveraray

The white washed town is the traditional town of the Campbell Clan Chiefs.  It was relocated when the laird decided to built his new castle 1/2 mile from its original location.

We dropped some of the group in the castle–built in 1743 by the Duke of Argyll.  It contain a wealth of historical relics, including portraits, tapestries, paintings and even a few ghosts.

 Allied troops trained here during WWII

after visiting some shops Susi and I opted for lunch

 then walking out into town again

The Artic Penguin is a former lightship converted to look like a schooner.  Built in 1910 by Dublin Drylock Co. Ltd of Dublin.  It was used to house a maritime museum until recently

Ok power is going so  I am too…I will finish the tour for you tomorrow and update you on Cornwall and more……

London is dreary today, but at least the rain has stopped.  Forecast is for scattered showers all day, but clear tomorrow.  Bundled up for temps 16-18 C.

Today is the beginning of my new adventure and I have a 10 am train (you lot are probably still in bed) to Cornwall.

I will catch up the heavier part of my trip as I go along as we were so consistently getting in late and having busy next days scheduled as well.  Susi went home on the 31st and I haven’t heard yet if she made it but figure if a Virgin Airline went down they’d have mentioned it on the BBC Breakfast (think Good Morning America with an accent) by now.

I’m currently checked out and waiting in the lobby for a cab.  It’s morning and London like all the cities you’re use to is frantically rushing about so it my take him up to 35 min. to reach me….got plenty of time so……

The lobby is small here but cute—and I can see and hear Belgrave as it moves past my waiting place.

REMEMBERING 5/21 (York to Edinburgh)

5/21 Departure to Edinburgh at 9:53 on yet another Virgin Train…to a city of castles — in fact the city is named after a fortress built by Edwin King of Northumbia in the 6th century:  Edwin’s Burgh.

Some scenes from the journey:

We arrived and caught a cab (they’re actually lined up here so capture is much easier) who first went to the wrong hotel and then finally to the right (I don’t always speak Scottish well despite my ancestors).

we checked into the IBIS just off the Royal Mile where the lobby is a bar (an restaurant too) and the bar hardly ever closes.

Then out onto the Royal Mile–there was live entertainment going on in the square our Hotel was on.

Edinburgh has a long history of warfare–King Edward I (think the king in Braveheart) conquered the castle here and fortified it.  Then it was Robert the Bruce’s turn in 1313 and he destroyed much of it in the effort but he did leave St. Margaret’s Chapel.  Then Edward had a successful go at it again and finally the Scots had it back in 1341.

A close by the way is what the alleyways that run off the Royal Mile are referred to as.

We checked out shops and went about the closes.  The old town is a particular love of mine with its narrow winding streets clinging to the huge volcanic outcropping beneath it.

Because the city grew up within the King’s Wall (built by James II in 1450) which was very much restricted by the stone outcropping it was on, it grew up in tenements, with some going up to 14 stories high and which were probably the first skyscrapers.  The restrictions to the city were continued due to the unrest between England and Scotland until the 18th century when things became more settled and then New Town was born.

BACK TO TODAY 6/1

OMG what a difference a place makes…I left London at 10:06 this morning on Great Western, which was a great relief as they have been having issues with some service delays and strikes and I was worried that it might affect my getting from there to here, but all went well and I left a cold dreary city to wander into a similar country side.

On the train I had one of the table cars where I set with a young couple who spoke English as a second language and a very interesting English man traveling a bit on family business and bereavement.  We talked and took pictures of the scenery going by—the above being one of them.

On arrival at Bodmin Parkway station there was a cab in the line (there’s usually 3 so I got lucky) and we were off for a 46 pounds plus tip to Tintagel where it was much warmer and very sunny.  The hotel—again check in at bar–is old an rambling and wonderful….though very kirky.  I was checked in and ordered a drink in just a few.  I met a wonderful lady who was ordering coffee and we sat in the outside area with a great playground for the kids and talked about everything and anything.