Part II–Chelsea & Belgravia: An absolutely new idea is one of the rarest things known to man. Thomas More

Chelsea Old Church | National Churches Trust

History

Sir Thomas More

Lived in Chelsea for around 14 years until his attainder in 1535.  He would come here to escape London and the court and to spend time with his family and his own literary pursuits and he also entertained friends, including Erasmus and Holbein.  It is thought by some that the latter designed the capitals in the More Chapel, in the Old church (1528).

  • Statue of Thomas More outside Chelsea Old Church

There is a Statue of More outside the churchyard and only a short distance from here is:

The Thomas Carlyle’s House

Carlyle's House - Wikipedia

Immediately west of the church stands

 

Trfihi Parks | Parks | Ropers Gardens

Roper’s Garden, Chelsea, London – See Around Britain

 A public green space which is said to be the same site as a garden given by More to his daughter and her husband.

  At one time More seemed to be headed for a more holy life—he spent his younger days at the Carthusian Monastery near Lincoln Inn—he even wore a hair shirt —-a habit that he continued off and on thru his entire life.  But he opted for a chaste husband rather than a priest.

He married Jane Colt, daughter of a gentleman farmer whom he taught Latin among other subjects not common in the normal education of a female in those times.  He would later educate his daughter as well—infact she was the first non-royal English woman to publish a work in translation.  All this may have been one of the reasons that his house built here in Chelsea is said to have rooms which were set up to promote quiet study and of course prayer.

Go into the church’s grounds

There has been a church here since the 8th c.  In the 13th a new church was built.  There was a chancel in 1326 north south chapels were added and in 1670 a tower.   One chapel—-the north belonged to the Lawrence family who were Lords of the manor of Chelsea.  Another to Sir Thoma Lawerence, an Elizabethan merchant.

The chancel entrance was designed by Hans Halbien, a court painter who did portraits for Henry VIII and his court.

Oh and by the way Henry VIII and his third wife (Jayne Seymore-and mother of his only son—she died shortly after that birth) worshiped here.

Lady Jane Grey (who later was executed for being involved in a rebellion against Henry’s daughter Mary taking the throne after the early death of her brother Edward—the rebellion was due to Mary being a catholic) took communion here when she spent time (along with her cousin Elizabeth) here with Henry VIII’s widow Katherine Parr at her estate from her late Henry—as she was his surviving widow—something that really was an accomplishment for a wife of Henry—-there was one other surivor—Anne of Cleves who he didn’t like —he’d only seen her in a portrait — with her agreement (she was from the upper class in what would later become Germany) he had the marriage annualled and she was offically declared a sister of the king and give a few palaces and money to support her—she outlived all the Henry’s wifes—including the first which he divorced and the last who died in childbirth when she married another courtier—who was her 4th husband  (Henry only beat Kathern Parr by 2 marriage partners—hers except for the last were old to begin with) the first three died of natural causes including Henry—the last outlived her but not for long—he was the brother of that Jane Seymour and pissed off with his brother alot of equally powerful people in England,  trying to run the prince their nephew and thus the country.

 

Memorial to Lady Jane Cheyne and Charles Cheyne

There is also a 17th c memorial to Lady Jane Cheyne–after whose husband Cheyne Walk was named.  This is a grandiose Renaissance Tomb by Bernini .

  John Wesley preached from the pulpit here and the church was later painted by both JMW Turner and then James Whistler

The present church was rebuilt after WWII.  It  is a replica of the medieval church which was heavily damaged during the bombing of London. Much of the damage happened when a parachuted landmine fell nearby and the tower was blown over onto the church in 1941.   Most of the church was heavily damaged except for More’s Chapel (re-opened 1950).  Later the Lawence Chapel  was restored and opened (1954) and then reconstruction of the church was completed (1958).

 

Among the church’s treasurers are the only chained books left in London:  includes The Vinegar Bible (1717)—it has a printer’s error which makes the parable of the Vinegaryard  instead  the parable of the Vinyard.

It is considered fashionable to be married here.

Enter the church.

The present arch leading from the chancel is a reproduction of the original 14th c one that collapsed in 1784 and has only been partly restored.

Go to the chapel.

The Chapel on the South rebuilt in 1528, by Sir Thomas More as his private chapel.  The capitals of the pillars here are said to represent the symbol of More’s offices in the Church and the State.  This is an absolute freehold, and beyond the control of the bishop—it was allowed to fall into disrepair but was purchased by a Mr. R.H. Davies and transferred into control by church wardens and trustiess and has been mostly restored.  The church was enlarged in the 17th c and the heavy brick tower at it’s western end was built.

The church is known for its array of monument including an ornate 1753 memorial to Sir Hans Sloane.  He had prior to his passing donated several rare books to the church including the Vinegate Bible which we mentioned previousy as well as a copy of Foxe’s Book ofMartyrs (1684).

When you’re finshed with viewing the chruch leave and return to Old Church Street turning right and continue on Old Church

Restaurant of the Week: The Chelsea Pig, Chelsea | House & Garden

#35:  Chelsea Pig (formerly the Pig’s Ear)

This might be a nice place to take a break or stop for lunch. 

British modern pub dishes, complimented by a selected group of beers, signature cocktails and a nice wine list.

34, 36 and 38, Old Church Street SW3, Chelsea Riverside, London

Across the Street

The Chelsea cows | The story behind Wright's Dairy and its surprising musical legacy | Memoirs Of A Metro Girl

is

#46  The Old Dairy

Which was built in 1796 when there were still cows grazing here

Continue on Old Church until you come to King’s Road where you will turn right

King's Road London - 11 Reasons You Need to Discover This Street

King Road is Chelsea’s main route

Cross over King’s street and then turn right

Carlyle Square

It was said of London in the 18th c was “such a huge city.”   But by todays it would have, I’m afraid, been considered small and  a bit rural.   Though it was no longer just the square mile of the original city there were still open fields to be viewed north of Oxford Rd at this time–infact Chelsea was still a seperate village then.

Immediately on your left

Carlye Square

This is a garden square, laid out on market gardens which originally was called Oakley  Square.  It’s present name became its name in 1872 in honor of the writer Thomas Carlye.  The garden at the center of this square was the site of an annual summer party held by David Frost,   All manner of people many of note from British and international society, politics and broadcasting and it was described in 2008 as “an importent fixture for London media and political party sessons.

The square has been known for flower stalls and fountains.

After seeing the square take two left turns to go around the square and continue to your left on King’s

Up market residential area of Chelsea King’s road stands for all the youthful rebellion that Britain as well as the rest of the world had in the 60’s,  The botiques here were the first to make and sell  the mini-skirt and other gear for the1960’s and later Punk was born here.

If you’re into antiques and collectibles you’ll like the 3 warrens of stalls on the south side of King’s Rd.

 

pheas.jpg

 

Pheasntry —152 Kings Road

The site’s name comes from a Samuel Baker who had a business here where he developed new breeds of oriental pheasant as well as cattle and foxes.

It is estimated that the building here now was constructed in the mid-nineteenth century.

The Companion Guide to London

The Campion Guide to London sayes that a family, the Jobets bought this building in 1889 and added “significant amounts of agricultural decoration including a “flamboyant Louis XV facade and a triumphant entrance arc to it’,s front courtyard.

 

 

The house was occupied in the early 20th c by Eleanor Thonton a model of artist Charles Sykes, whom legends sayes used her for his Rolls Royce mascot the Spirit of Ectasy.  She drown in 1915.

In 1916, there was a ballet academy in part of the building—ran by Serafina Astafaieve, a neice of Leo Tolstoy, who trained many dancers of fame.

In the 30’s the basement became a restaurant and drinning club popular with actors such as, Humphrey Bogart and Francis Bacon.  It closed in 1966 when the owner died.

 

By the 1950’s it was a british studio of the Italian painter Pietro Annigoni for 6 months.

By the late 60’s the building contained apartments.  Tenants included Eric Clampton who actually escaped a drug arrest here with the assistance of another tenant.

The King’s Road, London

Continue down King’s Road

King’s Road was once an exclusive royal road used only by King Charles II—and his staff and the theives who robbed the royal goods and related people who used it to provide services and goods to his palace

Cross over to the other side of King’s Road

Chelsea’s position on the north bank of the Thames and its Bohemian atmosphere attracted artists, writers and painters  over the years. with the like of  J.M.W. Turner, Henry James, T.S. Eliot, George Elliot, Mick Jagger (as well as his band mates), Mark Twain and Oscar Wilde to name but a few of it’s famous and infamous residents.

Past Baywater St.

 

Markham Square

Markham Square

A garden square laid out in 1836 that is accessed from King’s Road.  There was once a Congregational chapel at the north end of the square, but it was demolished in 1953.

Past Markham Street

Wren built a soldier’s home here after the Great Fire of 1771,

The second Earl Cafoan married Elizabeth Sloane, daughter of the physician Hans Sloane,  Her marriage partition included a big portion of Chelsea which was soon transformed from meadows and market gardens into fashionable residential areas.

If you would like to visit

 

Michael Hoppen Contemporary - Gallery - visitlondon.com

Michael Hoppen Gallery

3 Jubilee Pl.

Art Gallery–spacious international gallery showcasing established as well as up and coming fine art photographers

Turn right on Jubilee

Once you’re finished at the gallery,     return to King and continue the way you were going beforethe turn.

Past Godfrey Street

The Cadogam famiy is immortialized in 1 pier, 2 squares and 4 streets named for them in London.  The Solanes in 9 streets, 2 squares and a crescent that carry their name.

Past Chelsea Manor Street

Across the street you can see 

Newly refurished Grade II Victoriana buildingthat has not long been restored to it’s original glory, and now being used as an event venue.

The pleasure gardens on the south side of the river were very popular in the evenings—-but there were imitations north of the river.

Ranelagh at Chelsea was the most popular of these,  It opened in 1742 with 150′ in diameter rotund center piece.  Mozart played here as a child and there was a nearby lake and Chinese pavillion Canaletto

Entry fee included tea and coffee, 2 shillings on fireworks night, 5 shilling (a shilling was worth 20 pence–or a 20th or a pound).

 

4K - DUKE OF YORK SQUARE | KING'S ROAD CHELSEA LONDON | Spring May 2021 - YouTube

Duke of York Square

Pedestrianized enclave of boutiques and restauants with statues of Sloane and cooling fountains.

Saatchi Gallery - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos)

Saatchi Gallery

This is London’s Gallery for contemporary art, which was open by Charles Saatchi in 1985 to exhibit his collection to the public.  It has occupied different places, first in North London, then South Bank by the Thames and finally here in Chelsea.

Continue on Kings Road till it ends at Soane’s Square

Then turn right —the tube station is a short distance on your left.

Your are now on your own as to where you want to go from here—back to hotel, somewhere

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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DRAGONS BRING TREASURERS BACK TO THEIR CAVES